Fontainbleau trip
started this summer when Valerio, my brother Andrea, Francesco and I, thought to
a possible trip to the magical forest in November. The time passed too quickly
from that day of summer and in a while I experienced many other adventures.
About mid-October I
kept in touch with Valerio if the proposal of this summer was still stood so he
said me “Yes, sure”. After this fabulous
response I started sending emails to find a mobile-home to live, and after many
trouble we rented one at the campsite “ Le Parc du Guè” situated in the
Montigny-sur-Liong Village far 15km from Fontainbleau.
All was ready, so
the early morning of November the 9th, Andrea, Francesco and I drove
for 7-8 hours straight to Font, instead Valerio joins us from Rome by plane.
With the satnav was so easy find the campsite so we settled ourself in the mobile-home which was so comfortable.
Day 1 in the
forest:
The first day of
bouldering was amazing because we decided to check the most popular and
accessible area situated alongside the N7, Bas Cuvier! When we parked the car
and I saw this land full of boulders, I was stunned. The problems were all a
bit wet so we moves to Cuvier Rempart where I got one of THE BIG FOUR and still
one of my hardest goal of the trip, Big Boss 7c. For the first try seemed to
have no chance to do the gaston moves but then I was able to configure out a
new beta with a right toe-hook on the most right of the line, very useful not
to dab too the big stone behind. So in a
couple of tries I sent it making me sooo happy. J
 |
| Big Boss Ph. Andrea Zanone |
Other must-do sent
of the day:
-
Duroxmanie
6c flash Cuvier Rempart
-
Angle
Allain 5+ flash Cuvier Rempart
-
Cortomaltese
6c+ Bas Cuvier
-
Helicoptere
7a Bas Cuvier
Day 2:
The second day we
went to Isatis another classic sector. It was a quite cold morning so it was
not easy to warm up.
After the warm up I
climbed a lot of 7a/+ that are among the most beautiful blocks I’ve ever
climbed as:
-
Little
Karma assis 7a+
-
El
poussah 7a Flash
-
El
Poussif 7a+
-
Boule
de Nerfs 7a
-
Divine
decadence 7b/+
Day 3:
3 days were already
passed so we decided to come back to Bas Cuvier to check other classic. We
warmed up like children because we did a line and not even time to get off, we
got on another line without pad and so on.. for about 30 minutes. J
Then we tried
Aerodynamite 7c, a reference point for jump start but easier if you are taller.
My brother did it on his second try so he explained to me the beta. Thanks his
teach I was able to get the dyno and to send it on my first attempt. YEAHH!!
 |
| Aerodynamite Ph Fra Longhini |
The day finished as
well because I was able to flash the world’s first 6a, Marie Rose, to flash the
stand part of Carnage and in few attempt to send Carnage assis 7b+! J
 |
| Carnage Ph Fra Longhini |
Day 4:
The 4 day of
climbing we went to Franchard Cuisiniére because looked to so beautiful from
the guidebook. It was a relax day for, just climbing what inspired me more.
The best boulder of
the day was Excalibur 7a+ that contains a legend. This legend talk about a
chosen that is the only one able to get it like King Arthur pulls the sword
from the stone. Today I was the chosen ;)
Even today, the
darkness came early so we left the sector headed home for a delicious dinner.
Day 5:
We got up about
eight o'clock, as every morning but we heard from the bed the sound of rain,
which breaks on the roof so we decided to get a rest day and we came back to
sleep again J
At around 12
o’clock we went to the Mc Donald not for a healthy lunch but to take advantage
of the wi-fi which was free. The rest of the
afternoon we were in search of new sector for us as Elephant, Petit Bois which would
be the next destination. J
Day 6:
As said before we
went at the Elephant sector in the morning where I was able to crush La Barre
fixe 7b/+ in few tries and many other classic.
 |
| La barre fixed direct Ph Andrea Zanone |
Then we left this one to check
the Cul de Chien sector which is situated in an expanse of white sand which
makes it wonderful.
 |
| Cul de Chien beach |
We went straight below Le Toit du Cul de Chien, I've always
wanted to flash it but unfortunately the hill hook beta didn't suit me so I
fall down. The second attempt I pushed with my left foot on the steep and I did
it! What a pity.
Then we moved
quickly to Eclipse boulder, to the last session of the day, where there are
many cool lines to climbed. Firsty we tried the stand start of Eclipse because
this was the line that inspired me more. From the first attempts seemed
impossible for me, but later after having configured out all moves I was able
to grab the final crimp. Hell Yeah!!
Another cool line
that I climbed was Arabesque, 7b+ just on the right of eclipse. This problem
consists on few moves on big holds in overhang which joins with an hard gaston
move to take a two fingers pocket.
 |
| Eclipse Ph Andrea Zanone |
Last Day:
Seemed impossible
but the last day came very quickly. Without skin but with much motivation we
went to Roche aux Sabots, a really cool sector before Cul de Chien! It was the
coldest morning of the trip because there was so much cold wind which made it
difficult to keep warm. After a couple of 7a I tried Salle Gosse for about one
hour, without success, always dropping down to the final dyno.
Just one cliff we
missed to climb so we moved to Petit Bois that was one the sector that inspired
me more because it was not so big but full of must-do. Here I could get three
of the better boulder in Font:
-
La
Baleine 7a/+ flash.
-
Big
Jim 6c
-
L’oeuf
7b
I always saw Big
Jim from the screen but I never thought that it was in Petit bois so when we
checked this sector and I saw it and BIG DRAGON in front of my face I stood
breathless! Majestic wall, a bit scary the last move to the jug.
L’Oeuf was the
boulder that inspired me more for sure. Squeezed 4 brains to configure out the
beta then it looked possible! Actually this is what climbing means because it
consists in a really technical slab with weird toe/hill hook. EPIC!
 |
| L'oeuf Ph Fra Longhini |
La Baleine is
totally different from the others one, It's amazing overhang with an hard match on a
crimp that allow to get a big pocket.
No comments:
Post a Comment